NEW ORLEANS: World War II Muse

One of my great pleasures while driving is listening to a book on tape, preferably non-fiction of the biographical and historic type. Find that even short hops around town are worthwhile and valuable time goes unwasted. Have been able to finish some of the 20-tape variety, five-pound volumes in a few weeks this way. Ones I would take a month to read, falling asleep dropping book on the floor. A favorite, one I keep in the Burb to return often, is historian Stephen Ambrose, “America,” in which he relates little-known stories and observations about our great country. One is the story of an often neglected part of World War II history and yet one of the most important factors in winning the war, the plywood “Higgins Boat” or, in military terms, LCVP (Landing Craft Vehicle Personnel) which President Truman praised with the statement, “They won the war.”

Ambrose goes on to say not only was there very little current national recognition, but even in his adopted town of New Orleans and home of the whiskey-drinking designer and builder Andrew Jackson Higgins, few recalled their being built in downtown New Orleans. From this realization and with several years of hard work amongst a core group, the World War II Museum in New Orleans is now open to visitors with a Higgins Boat on display in the main building and a PT Boat under construction across the street. When AJ asked on our drive to Florida in the fall, “Where would you like to go on our annual getaway trip before Christmas?” I replied without hesitation, “New Orleans.” Museum being only one of several reasons I’ve wanted to visit for some time...Food, Music, History, People, OYSTERS included.

With the trip from Florida being 13 hours and a town of great oyster reputation about halfway, was easy to make the decision to stop overnight in Appalachacola, Fla., (once the largest town on the Panhandle), see the town and sample a dozen or so.

AJ had booked us at a historic hotel, The Coombs Inn, ex-private mansion built by an Old Town, Maine, emigre’ who made his fortune in the lumber business. Thus our trip began with wide-eyed delight. Listed as one of the top on the “National Register,” not large but palatial for turn of the century, it was spectacular. Bed was so tall, took two-step stairs to get on. With oohs and aahs completed, we caught the last of the sun to explore and photograph this unique village, which had been partially destroyed by hurricanes. Finally the appropriate time arrived for oysters and an “oyster crawl” around town, ending at “Hole In The Wall,” where we soon were on first-name basis with owner and crew. Never a lover of Gumbo, I was finally convinced to sample a bowl. Over-the-top delicious as were the “guarandamnteed” local oysters. Fun place.

Next day and a late-ish start was the final run up the panhandle, also referred to as the “Red-neck Rivieria,” past the training airbases for Marines and Air Force where fighter jets seemed to be putting on an endless air show. Must say gives one a safe feeling watching them screeching cloud-bound at that rate of speed.

First day, settled in our small hotel in the French Quarter, we spent obligatory time doing double-decker tour, walking the quarter, finding our way around. AJ had been there a couple of times and managed to keep us from getting turned around and back to the hotel after oyster stops. Next day, and the big day, AJ went off to check out the New “Riverwalk” and all its shops while I headed over to the Museum for what turned out to be a very moving, poignant experience. Having never taken a lot of time to visit museums, I was thoroughly impressed by what had been accomplished here. First stop for any newcomer should be the “4-D” WWII Panorama “Beyond All Boundaries,” narrated by movie actor and major contributor Tom Hanks. Four years in the composition, the viewer begins to get a feel for the noise, the confusion, the horror of war. Bombs blast seemingly beside you, your seat vibrates, fake snow during the “Battle of the Bulge” falls. The entire World War from our parents’ time unfolds across the screen in moving maps highlighted by the horrific numbers of casualties, both in battle and by countries, and finally the world.

Opened only a few days previous, next section was “The Road To Berlin,” or European Theatre of operations, (“Road to Tokyo” opening next January). Again, a first-class job as the viewer is guided along a path of pictures, equipment, re-created and realistic scenes, and perhaps most moving of all, the ability to push a button and have WWII veterans tell in their own words what it was really like at Normandy, Pearl Harbor, Ardennes Forest, Berlin, Montecassino, Iwo Jima and the myriad other battles fought. May our country remain strong and vigilant to never have to face anything like this again.

On to the large Boeing Center, housing an original B-17 Bomber, “My Gal Sal”, C-47 cargo plane, and several fighters. This three-story building is truly amazing, not only for its collection and the close-up feeling as you walk along the catwalks, but again for the recorded histories of the men who flew the planes.

A day was hardly enough time to accomplish a good tour, so am looking forward to a return to both the vibrant city of New Orleans, which was all I had hoped for and more, and the Museum for upcoming additions.

• R E C I P E •

If you have a hankering for oysters and want to help our fledging oyster industry in Maine and might not like raw on the half-shell, try these grilled.

2 dozen shucked oysters
2 sticks unsalted butter, partially melted
Pinch kosher or seasalt
tsp. black pepper
2 T. minced garlic
qtr. cup parmesan cheese, grated
qtr. cup sharp cheddar, grated
2 dashes Frank’s Hot Sauce or equivalent
tsp. lemon juice
T. minced parsley
Crusty bread to mop up the drippings

Shuck the oysters and set aside on platter(s). Heat the grill to very hot. Natural Charcoal is the best. Whisk remaining ingredients together. Ladle a scant tablespoon of the sauce over each oyster and cook until oyster juice bubbles and oysters begin to curl on the edges. Bet you’ll want to do 3 doz. next time.

Fair Winds and Good Roads
– Lee Wilbur