“81” Southbound

by Lee Wilbur

That time of the year when woodbox reads empty more often than full and thermometer hanging on the old pine outside the window hovers in the 30 to 40 deg. range. Arthritis begins to complain. Docks are hauled up on shore, boats are put away and the old Burb is sitting on the hill with the battery disconnected. Time to join “Willie” and get on the road again. Set a course to the south’rd.

This year we’d decided to head over into Ontario first, see AJ’s Canadian offspring, then go further west for cousin visit and on down through Detroit with a stop at the Henry Ford Museum in the suburb city of Dearborn. Offspring visit went well, but with an early Sunday morning phone call to the western cousins before hitting Canads’s East/West Highway “20,” plans took an abrupt change. AJ tenderly removed the ancient highway atlas from the back of the seat and over breakfast we layed out a new course staying to the west on US Highway 81 through Harrisburg, Penn., where we would normally head east into Virginia and 95. Smokie Mtns and Blue Ridge Mtns. would be to our left with Applachians on the right. New territory.

Weather was gorgeous, and as we drove through the picturesque farming country of New York State, Syracuse, Binghamton, then the Poconos of Pennsylvania, scenery became enhanced to an even higher degree with foliage colors just turning.

With the demise of AJ’s computor over the summer, she’d invested in an Apple I-Pad, one where you touch the screen with moving forefinger and all sorts of amazing information and pictures appear. Once we’d figured some time and distance, she went to work on details of rooms and countryside. We’d stayed on the outskirts of Harrisburg before, but this time, though getting in late-ish, she found an intown room and a neat restaurant on what is called “Restaurant Row” near the old market place for dinner. Food was excellent and music was provided by a piano player with patrons invited to take the mike with own talents. Harrisburg is now on our list for more exploring.

Easy drive next day to destination Lexington, Va. over some country roads. Thirty thereabout miles north of Lexington, we turned off in the town of Cavanaugh, intending to pick up rte. 252 through hill/farming country to Lexington. 252 was on the map. Faintly, for good reason. Took us a good 45 min. to find it after asking directions, twice of natives who said they’d lived there “all their lives” and “never heard of it”. Finally, couple of power company guys pointed us in the right direction. Soon obvious why road was little known. Barely wide enough for two vehicles. No pullouts. Less room on corners. No matter, was one of the most scenic roads we’ve ever been fortunate to travel. Like cruising the coast of Maine. When one wasn’t oohin’ or aahin’ the other was. Hillside farms with Black Angus cattle, distant mountains in the backround, orange and brown foliage, mountain streams and brooks, gorgeous vistas (when we dared to stop), very little traffic, interspersed by “towns” of half dozen houses for 34 miles. Easy to understand why AAA rates it one of the top byways in America. Could say everything else on the trip was anticlimatic, but wasn’t.

We were in hill country, and Lexington, Pop. 7000, is located on the sides of several. My kind of town. Feel like you could move in tomorrow and know everyone by first name first of next week. Home of Virginia Military Institute, Washington and Lee college, the George C. Marshall Museum, Stonewall Jackson’s home, and site of several movies, a town loaded, as many southern towns, with Civil War history, Lexington is an absolute must-stop for an “81” voyage. We stayed downtown at the “Sheridan Livery Inn and Restaurant,” built originally by a Civil War veteran and updated with care and responsibility over the ensuing years. Experience like going back in time forgotten. Wide heavy wooden doors, good 14 ‘high ceilings, windows that actually opened, with tasteful amenities and comfortable beds. Difficult to pick a restaurant from the several four and five stars listed, except everyone we asked said ‘if you’ah ownley gonna be heah wan naht yoaw’ve got two dahn at tha Laxinton Hotayal.”

Now, believe me, this establishment is well camouflaged behind a purposely neglected 50’s décor exterior. Looking through the plate glass windows reminded us of a run of the mill hamburg and sandwich shop. But, everyone we asked for suggestions always ended with the same. The Lexington Hotel was a must. We made reservations for the last table and time available. My only comments are “they were right” and “Wow.” Twice I’d heard accolades for their Southern Fried Chicken. I tried it. Never had chicken so melt in your mouth delicious. In fact, everything on the plate, vegetables, potato, andbread had it’s own exquisite treatment. Had to close my eyes with each bite and savor the flavors, dinner was so good.

We met some “new best friends” at the next table who winter just down the road from us, and after a digestive afterdinner walk, AJ and I decided that next trip, be it headed north or southbound, we’d spend a few days here.

Next day was Greenville, South Carolina, and I’ll wait until next month to tell you about this highpoint......

* R E C I P E *

Aroostook County, AJ’s origination spot has turned out a lot of great pan rattlers over the years and many of their recipes are contained in the now prized “Caribou Cookbook,” 1979, published by the Ladies Aid of the Universalist Church. One that caught my eye for originality is the following:

BROILED FLOUNDER FILLETS WITH PUFFY CHEESE SAUCE by Fran Pierson

1.5 lbs. Flounder fillets

1 T chopped parsley

salt and pepper to taste

1/3 c. grated sharp cheddar cheese

1/2 cup mayonnaise

One egg white

Dash of cayenne

Some pimentos

2 T chopped pickle

Wipe fish with damp cloth and put on greased broiler rack. Broil under medium heat 8 to 10 minutes. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Mix mayo, cayenne, pickle, parsley and cheese. Beat egg white and fold into dressing. Spread on fish. Broil 5 minutes. Garnish with pimentos. Serves 4. This is interesting to me as I would normally do the dressing and apply it before broiling.

Fair Winds and Good Roads
– Lee S. Wilbur