Doing the Quoddy Loop II
The distance from Deer Island ferry landing to Grand Manan Ferry Terminal in Black’s Harbor is quite close (perhaps 3 miles). To be sure of getting aboard we swung into the parking area to find ample parking. Couldn’t help but be impressed by the new highway and pier work that had taken place since we’d been out to Grand Manan a decade or so previous. When the Canadians build a highway they seem to go at it with beauty and efficiency in mind. Assumed this must have been part of the east-west “Canada Highway” system. Quite impressive.
Though Black’s Harbor is a relatively small town with limited shops and amenities, we had an adequate lunch and with more time to kill the girls discovered a neat clothing and etc. shop in the same plaza with “end of season sale” in progress. Did their best to help the Canadian economy. Bundles loaded we drove the few miles to the ferry terminal, parked in line and dismounted for a walk around the huge parking area. Managed to get to the far end when the whistle blew for loading and we had to run for the Tahoe again.
A common complaint heard from the tourist trade along the borders is the fact of having to have passports to cross the border and the unfavorable effect it’s had on business in both countries. What a dream it would be to have an open border!!
Interesting point, Paid for one ferry ride going over to Deer Island, free ride off. No fee to get over to Grand Manan, pay to get back. Simplifies bookkeeping and authorities know you’ve gotta go to the mainland sometime.
Grand Manan Ferry is both huge and quite comfortable, with seats you’d expect to find on an airliner. Has a more than acceptable snack bar serving full meals and very large portions. Wondered on trip over why so many passengers were hurrying to line up and place their orders.
Grand Manan folk, as most islanders we’ve ever encountered, are extremely friendly and accomadating. First motel AJ had booked turned out to be “pet friendly” with a lingering doggy odor and the understanding proprietress gave us the many names, numbers and locations of other bed locations on the island. Many turned out to be booked with end of seasoners like ourselves. Finally, we called a couple with an available cottage on Whale Cove Road who were off-island shopping who said, “Go right in, we never lock. Make yourself at home. We’ll see you in the morning.” Cottage was beautiful and big with a great view and a very accomadating price as well.
With room problem solved it was time to go exploring. Weather being the unknown factor on our minds, we decided to head down island towards Southwest Head Lighthouse, then work our way back in time for dinner. Southwest Head Light, located on a high treeless bluff looks toward England with nothing but the North Atlantic in the way and a lonely, solitairy felling about it. History tablet mounted outside the Light tells of two men in a dory who’d come ashore at the base of the sheer bluff in winter and of one, who in the dark had scaled his way up, woken the lighthouse keeper who had then arranged a rescue for his crewmate. Looking down it was hard to believe anyone alone could have made his way up that face in the dark, let alone daylight.
We poked down just about every beckoning byroad on the drive up island that afternoon. There’s a certain feeling to Grand Manan that settles on a visitor. Hard to describe. It is Grand. Hour and a half from the Mainland, sweeping vistas, friendly inhabitants, kind of quiet, working harbors with lots of commercial boats, well kept houses alongside abandoned ones. Desire to see it all. Unique. I’ve talked with several people who would rather spend their vacations and spare time on Grand Manan than anywhere else.
Next morning early, Pat and John walked to the nearby bakery for an assortment of pastries while we made coffee and planned the day. First stop was a hike down the side of a cliff to Hole In The Wall Cove, the rock formation pictured on most brochures of the area., a must for photo ops and “hold your breath looking downs” at the surf. From there was a short drive to Dark Harbor, home of the Dulce “fleet” where the dulce seaweed is harvested to be dried. This is an interesting, to say the least, natural beachrock enclosed harbor with one small entrance at the eastern end which you’d swear was man made. Person with a camera could spend days shooting there and talking with the harvesters. Scenes change dramatically with each run of the 30-plus foot tide.
Finished with an apropos lunch of smoked salmon, sardines, crackers, and wine, on the beach at Seal Harbor we made a quick visit to the not to be missed local art gallery and then on to Grand Manan Historical Museum. Never have I been in a better small museum than this. When we return we’ll reserve a full day or more for just the museum. Well displayed, and loaded with the historical stories and artifacts of island life from its earliest inhabitants, it’s another “must do”.
Dinner that night at the Inn at Whale Cove, oldest structure on the island was most enjoyable. Reservations only for two seatings, and order had to be placed for entree’ at time of reservation.
Rain was coming down in sheets through thick fog as we took our last Ferry of the trip back to the mainland and St. Andrews for a day of shopping and more sightseeing. There was a reenactment of the the storming of the small fort, stores for the girls to explore, a nice lunch to be had and a stop at the lovely and famous old Algonquin Resort Hotel and golf course which had just been taken over and was in the process of being restored. Will be worth a return visit when completed. Like walking back into 1920’s and the days of the “grand dames” at their tea.
Dinner that night was splendid, a fitting end to a memorable trip. The original Rossmount Hotel, located a fewmiles from town had burned was then rebuilt by an aging boatbuilder of scavenged materials from various teardowns of old homes and sundry buildings. Dark wood interior was a composite of various eras and décor artfully assembled and tastefully done to an inexperienced eye such as mine. The menu is built around locally grown product which is both tasty and interesting and served by an experienced “area knowledgeable” staff.
Quoddy Loop would normally not be complete without Eastport; however, with the rain, our off and on companion, now on again, we decided to leave it for another trip. With the extra scribbling this month it seemed best to postpone the recipe till next issue.
Fair Winds and Good Roads
– Lee S. Wilbur