Tuna at 50, Pt. II
Vinnie needed a new boat if he was going to realize his life’s goal, his life’s dream to fish on one of Sportfishing’s ultimate levels. Safety factor for Canyon fishing in the Grady White would be lower than he’d ever be comfortable with. In addition, as he’d realized while fishing the Grady on the fringes of “Offshore,” he’d have trouble boating a fish of any size. What good is catching a “big one” if you can’t bring it home for the victory pictures, filling the freezer, and reciprocating gifts for other fishing friends who’d shared samples of their catch.
Boat had to be at least 28'. Twin diesel engines. Tankage sufficient for the run out and back, trolling for 10-12 hours and a safety margin. Had to accommodate owner and up to three crew. Adequate fighting cockpit was a must with easily accessible engine room for any emergency repairs. An old addage amongst experienced boaters runs, “Anything can happen and probably will when least expected.”
By 2003 Vinnie was seriously looking. He’d been able to make a few extra “playbucks” with a consulting contract so his friend Ron started doing some scouting again as he’d done in finding the Grady. Soon, he’d spotted a neat “Carolina Classic” 28' on Cape Cod that appeared to have a well rounded list of requirements Vinnie’d been looking for. With a successful bit of determined bargaining, he and Ron brought the boat to Rhode Island and began the job/pleasure of rigging her. One of the great pleasures and pride in owning a boat no matter how simple or how large is outfitting it to work well and safely. Hundred miles out there’s no local marina to solve a problem.
I asked Vinnie about Ron, knowing that a good hunting or fishing partner is worth their weight in gold. “Ron and I were childhood friends,” he replied. “Lived three houses apart. Somehow we lost track of each other after high school. 25 years later we’re sitting next to each other in a local barber shop. We look in the mirror. That was all it took. We took up where we’d left off 25 years ago. Ron had a 20' Trophy which we used while learning how to fish for Stripers. On a good day at Block Island we could catch up to 15. Released most and sometimes all of them.”
“How come you’d release so many,” I asked.
“Well, as you know, Stripers were still making a comeback and there was a limit on size and number. We just loved to fish. And besides, Ron’s wife wouldn’t cook his fish and my wife Cheryl doesn’t eat fish. You can only load your neighbors freezers so full.”
“Once we had the new boat, now named “Bella Fortuna” (a play on tuna), outfitted and done some day trips we started fishing the Canyons, first four or five trips we never really caught much. Anyone has to realize this is another level in fishing. I’ve got to put together a crew who can work together and they’ve got to break in and get familiar with a captain who’s never gone this far before and has just a bit more experience on the water than they. You’ve got to be able to work together, know what to expect from each other in an emergency. And remember, this is 90-120 miles offshore in a 28' boat. And, Ron wouldn’t go offshore.”
“We’d leave home around 10 am. Two in the afternoon we’d be at the Canyons and troll until sundown. Then we’d either start drifting or tie to a high flier from an offshore lobsterfisherman’s trap line. We put lines over with bait down about 30 feet and start chunking. (ed. note, “chunking” is done by throwing–sometimes with a chunking machine–cut up fish bait overboard on a regular timed basis). By first light, we’d stop chunking, re-rig the rods and start trolling again. We’d head slightly north in the direction of home so we’d have a little jump on the run back. Fish till noon or thereabouts and be back sometime between 4-6pm.”
“And then we’d have work to do. As you can imagine, there’s a lot to clean up. No good fisherman wants to come back in the morning to a dirty, fishbait-smelling boat. And if the trip has been successful, catch has to be iced down and/or cut up...though sometimes we do that in the morning.”
Before long, position on the learning curve was headed down instead of up, Vinnie and the crew started catching fish. Catching the reason for these trips. Bringing home tuna.
One night, after tying to a high flier they’d begun chunking. Then the owner of the trapline appeared so they had to move. In the process they’d forgotten to turn off the chunking machine. Finding another high-flier, they again tied up and soon realized their mistake. Half their prepared bait had been sent overboard. Bad luck then made a 180 degree turn. Night was calm, moonlit, when from glow of the anchor light they spotted huge schools of squid going by. Nets went over the side and they soon had a few buckets of live squid for bait. Lines were quickly re-rigged and dropped to the 30-40 foot range. Within minutes, 4 rods went down. Four good sized yellowfins were on. “Each of us had a rod, crazy scene, all trying to get away from each other, trying to keep the lines from crossing and still reeling. Figuring out whose fish had tired so that guy could use the gaff, then trying to get the first fish aboard, then the next. It was beautiful.”
However, “the big fish had still eluded us, the one where you go to the dock and it’s so big they have to pull it up with block and tackle and all the onlookers come around and ooh and aah. One that puts you in the big league. One where you can talk to your fishing friends with a little more authority, stand taller telling fish stories.” (Next month)
Although Italian Piccata is usually made with veal, it’s not unusual lately to see “fish piccata” on a restaurant menu. This is one I like to do at home using flounder, one of my favorites.
• R E C I P E •
4-6 oz. skinless flounder fillets
Half cup flour
Qtr. cup canola oil
4 T. unsalted butter
1 large shallot, minced
Qtr. cup dry white wine
2 t. capers Pepper and sea salt to taste
Pat fillets dry with paper towel and season with a bit of salt and pepper. Dredge the fillets in flour. Heat 2 T. oil and 1 T. butter in a 12" skillet over high heat. Cook 2 fillets, flipping once until golden. About 3-4 minutes. Transfer to two warmed plates. Wipe the pan and repeat the cooking process. Transfer, add 1 T. butter, minced shallot, and lemon and cook until shallot is soft. 1-2 minutes. Add wine, cook, scraping up browned bits from pan. Add remaining butter and capers. Cook until sauce is slightly thickened and spoon over fillets. Great for small dinner parties as well.